Best Biking & Cool Cafes: Autumn North of Toronto
Writer and riding fanatic Bill Farnsworth gives his tips for best spots for cyclists to enjoy a coffee and a bite to eat this autumn in the great Canadian wilderness just north of Toronto.
For me, fall is the best season for cycling. Why? Of course the cooler temperatures and quiet roads are like a breath of fresh air after the bustle of summer. And without a doubt the epic colours of the changing leaves set against lakes of deepening blue make every ride feel more amazing. But what I love most is a visit to a quaint bakery for a sweet treat, an aromatic coffee or refreshing cold beverage, depending on the day. This region is dotted with delicious bakeries, cafes and eateries to fuel your pit-stop. Check out some of my favourites and see for yourself.
Algonquin Park
Fall in Algonquin Park lives up to the hype. With hundreds of pristine lakes surrounded by forests alight in colour, cycling Hwy 60 is a beautiful route climbing up and over hills and twisting around lakes and rivers with smooth asphalt and wide shoulders. Or to avoid the busy corridor, my personal pick is the Old Railway Bike Trail. Aptly named, this trail follows the original rail-bed past several lakes, and boasts a flat, relatively hard packed surface perfect for mountain bikes or adventurous gravel cyclists. (Make sure to book an advance day pass during fall colour season.)
On your way to the trail, be sure to visit the Lake of Two Rivers Café and Grill for gourmet coffee, light food options and ice cream. You can also stop at the Portage Grill at Canoe Lake by Algonquin Outfitters for something heartier, and the company also has bikes for rent at their Huntsville location. If you are entering from the West Gate, stop first in Dwight at Henrietta’s Pine Bakery for pastries, breads and their signature sticky buns!
Almaguin Highlands
The Almaguin Highlands is my go-to region for gravel road riding with plenty of routes that rise and fall with the varied topography. Insider tip: this region borders on the Western edge of Algonquin Park which is a great way to enjoy the fall colours at a much slower pace.
A favourite fall ride of mine starts at the Village of South River and heads East 20 km to Kawawaymog Lake. From here there are multiple gravel options with loops of 50 km or more. In South River get cold brew coffee, baked goods and ice cream at South River Scoops & Bakeshop. If you are travelling from the south, head to Sips Craft Beverages in Sundridge on your way for fresh treats and their seasonal Pumpkin Chai Latte.
Loring-Restoule
Looking for a cycling destination off the beaten path? Hwy 522 travels directly through Port Loring but at times you’ll feel like you’re on a private road with just you and your bike! For history lovers, grab your gravel bike and head to the community of Commanda. By cycling south on Rye Road and Eagle Lake Road you will pass through the lost towns of Rye and Bummer’s Roost, both stops on the original Old Nipissing Road.
In Port Loring, Jake’s Place Restaurant offers delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner options with plenty of desserts and coffee. Roxie’s Diner has amazing pub food and pizza options to fuel your ride or refill the tank after a hard day in the saddle.
Muskoka
When I think of this popular vacation destination, I think mountain biking. With 2 clubs actively creating and maintaining trails, the Muskoka region is a haven for fat tire riding.
The Huntsville Mountain Bike Association (HMBA) maintains and manages two trail systems in Huntsville, including the system at Hidden Valley and Deerhurst Resort where a stop on the Ontario Enduro Series was held. Along with multiple downhills and some challenging features, you’ll find a spectacular view of the fall colours from the lookout over Peninsula Lake. Make sure to stop at Downtown Espresso for premium coffee, delectable pastries and Italian fine food or drop by Affogato Café and Gelato for their extensive menu of coffees, tarts, cheesecakes and, of course, artisanal gelato.
The Muskoka Off Road Cycling Association has been working with the Town of Bracebridge to bring challenging and rewarding singletrack trails to the Bracebridge Resource Management Centre. Epic fall scenery is on the horizon as you wind through a forest of changing leaves along the banks of the Muskoka River. Bracebridge has several excellent cafés to choose from. Baristah Coffee roasts regularly on site using only fair trade beans while Buddha’s Bakery and Café offers a variety of gluten free and vegan options made on site.
For road cyclists, one of my favourite day trips in Muskoka is the Lake of Bays loop, taking in the villages of Dwight, Dorset and Baysville. While passing through Dwight stop at Erika’s for freshly made gourmet cakes, pies and pastries. And no trip through Baysville would be complete without a visit to Miss Nelle’s, serving up breakfast, lunch and snacks, and a stop in at the Humble Pie Bakery is a must as well.
Parry Sound
With its beautiful harbour on Georgian Bay, Parry Sound is one of my favourite cycling destinations in the entire province. Iconic windswept views meet veins of exposed granite guarded by canopies of fiery maple trees.
For mountain bikers, the Georgian Nordic Outdoor Activity Centre offers more than 40 km of trails to enjoy. The trails here have been meticulously planned to take advantage of the region’s unique topography with exposed rock and short punchy climbs. With a mix of winding singletrack and fast and fun doubletrack, the trails at Georgian Nordic offer adventure at any skill level. (Pass required to use the trails.)
Road riders are met with dozens of excellent routes, with a couple of my favourites being Highway 124 with its wide shoulders and challenging elevation, and Highway 518 that twists and turns through the remote landscape.
Cyclists should definitely plan to stop at Parry Sound Bikes for local info, last minute gear and great coffee. Dent Bay Baking Company creates artisan sourdough and craft pastries while Shrubs and Shrews, also located downtown, has coffee, sweets and brownies that are to die for!
South Algonquin
This region is home to the towns of Whitney and Madawaska. An adventurer’s dream, it is known for the untamed beauty of the Madawaska River. I love to explore this area on a gravel bike, constantly scouring mapping apps for new routes to explore. A personal favourite is the pedal over the Rapid Lake Trestle Bridge just outside of Whitney, newly reopened just in time for fall. While you’re here, don’t miss the famous live musical nights at Bongopix Tavern. With great food and a quirky atmosphere, the Tavern is a perfect way to unwind after a fall ride.
Do I cycle to indulge? Or does the promise of delicious treats motivate a ride? The answer is probably somewhere in between! But either way it keeps me pedalling throughout the fall season. Bring your bike (or bikes!), pick a route, and plan to stop at one of our amazing cafés, bakeries, or eateries this autumn in the Great Canadian Wilderness just north of Toronto.
For more great places to stop while you’re out biking, check out the list below.
ALGONQUIN PARK
Erika’s Bakery Dwight
Henrietta’s Pine Bakery Dwight
Lake of Two Rivers Café & Grill Hwy 60, Algonquin Park
ALMAGUIN HIGHLANDS
Burk’s Falls Café and Grill Burk’s Falls
Quiet Bay Café Magnetawan
Sips Craft Beverages Sundridge
South River Scoops and Bakeshop South River
LORING-RESTOULE
Lakeview Café at The Port Shores Port Loring (seasonal)
Jake’s Place Port Loring
Roxie’s Diner Port Loring
MUSKOKA
Affogato Cafe + Gelato Huntsville
The Bakery Gravenhurst
Baristah Coffee Bracebridge
Buddha Bakery and Café at Muskoka Natural Food Market Bracebridge
Downtown Espresso Huntsville
Farmers’ Daughter Huntsville
Henrietta’s Pine Bakery Huntsville
Jack & Stella Bala
Miss Nelle’s Café Baysville
Relish Kitchen and Market Gravenhurst
Thrive Foods Cafe & Marketplace Honey Harbour
Trading Post Cabin Port Severn
Well Fed Gravenhurst
The Wheelhouse Café at The Shipyards Muskoka Marketplace Gravenhurst
Windmill Bakery & Bistro Huntsville
PARRY SOUND
Dent Bay Baking Company Parry Sound
Loretta’s Bakery & Marketplace Seguin
Northern Perk Coffee Shop Parry Sound (seasonal)
Oakcrest Co. Parry Sound
Shrubs and Shrews Cafe & Marketplace Parry Sound
SOUTH ALGONQUIN
Bongopix Tavern & Café Whitney
Did we miss any? Email [email protected] with your suggestions for great cycling coffee stops.
For more great info on cycling in the region, including over routes and trails, visit BikeCottageCountry.ca. To plan your stay, visit GreatCanadianWilderness.com.
Guest Blogger:
Bill Farnsworth is a writer and outdoor adventurer who is particularly fond of all types of cycling. He is also an Explorers’ Edge stafff alumnus, and we’re always happy to have him back.